The Icon: Thierry Mugler Angel | Vanity Collection

It’s challenging to sum up everything I feel, think & know about this most unique, most controversial and probably sometimes even most misunderstood perfume of all in just a paragraph or two. I’m compelled to say that Angel is a perfume that isn’t supposed to be worn to the gym, during the summer heat, in small rooms or to be spritzed on heavily. There is an exact Angel application technique: first, apply a touch of Angel moisturizing cream to the skin. Then, spray a light cloud of perfume and walk through it. To finish, apply a touch of fragrance to your pulse points. You see, Angel is supposed to be treated in a specific way so that the juice opens up to you and provide its exquisite heart in full buoyancy without smothering you. Kiss but don’t bit policy, in a way. It was created in 1992., two years after Thierry Mugler partnered up with the founder of the Clarins Group, Jacques Courtain-Clarins. The designer had a vision to create an extremely sensual perfume of paradox, a cross between confectionery and perfumery, something that couldn’t be ignored – I believe that Angel has fulfilled its purpose. It has paved the way for a new fragrance family: oriental gourmand. Did you know that Angel is the first blue fragrance, the first “Gourmand” fragrance, the first star-shaped fragrance?

Prilicno je zahtjevno sazeti sve sto osjecam, mislim i znam o ovom unikatnom, najkontroverznijem te vjerovatno i nekada pogresno shvacenom parfemu u samo jedan-dva paragrafa. Osjecam potrebu da naznacim da Angel nije parfem koji je namijenjen nosenju u teretani (ili za bilo koju fizicku aktivnost), na ljetnoj vrevi, u zatvorenim prostorijama i definitivno sa njim treba biti lagane ruke kod doziranja. Postoji cak citav ritual nanosenja Angela tj.tehnika nanosenja koja se sastoji od tri koraka. Prvi jeste da nanesete mrvicu Angel losiona/kreme za tijelo. Potom jedan spric u zrak da napravirte mirisni oblak kroz koji cete prosetati i na kraju, nanosite jedan spric na pulsnu tacku po izboru. Angel je parfem sa kojim je potrebno znati kako ga koristiti da bi otvorio svoje raskosno srce i dusu – a da vas pri tome ne optereti. Nesto poput balansa izmedju njeznog i strastvenog poljupca. Zelite njeznost, ne agresivnost. Parfem je kreiran 1992., dvije godine nakon sto je Thierry Mugler stupio u partnerstvo sa Jacques Courtain-Clarinsom (osnivacem Clarins Group-a). Mugler je imao viziju da stvori izrazito senzualan parfem paradoksa, spoj izmedju slasticarne i parfumerije, nesto sto ne mozete ignorisati. Vjerujem da je Angel ispunio svoju svrhu. On je sam-samcat napravio mjesto za novu parfemsku porodicu – orijentalno gurmansku kategoriju. Da li ste znali da je Angel prvi plavi parfem, prvi gurmanski parfem i prvi parfem u zvjezdolikoj bocici?

I’ve had a very complex relationship for years with Angel and I believe that was because I wasn’t ready for it years back and I honestly couldn’t appreciate it in all its complexity. I was always intrigued, though. Mugler perfumes caught my eye ages ago and my path to connecting with them was through Womanity, then Alien and Angel in the end. I’ve settled for the Angel Vanity Collection that features Angel EDP (50ml), Angel Perfuming Lotion (100ml) and a beautiful Angel inspired beauty bag all packaged in a powder blue box. The box oozed perfume before I opened it. The beauty bag still smells of it even though it stands empty for days in my bedroom. I was relieved to see that the beauty bag is very well-made. I don’t like when gift sets get ruined with cheap beauty bags, don’t you? Body lotion is beautiful – of a light, fast-absorbing texture and has a tad lighter, fresher feel than the EDP. It’s perfect for layering or to be worn alone when the air isn’t cool enough for the EDP. Angel EDP is a masterpiece from start to finish – did you know that every Angel star is unique due to a particular glassmaking technique and hand-polishing? I decided to go for the 50ml bottle because I wanted to avoid the blue juice turning brown under certain conditions. That’s the catch with blue perfumes – they all have a tendency to change color over time. I guess patchouli could be also one of the reasons too. 

Licno sam sa Angelom imala kompleksan odnos ponajvise zato sto prethodnih godina nisam bila dovoljno zrela da bih umjela cijeniti njegov kompleksni karakter. Doduse, oduvijek me intrigirao. Muglerovi parfemi su mi odavno privlacili paznju a nas odnos se konkretizirao kroz kupovinu Womanity, potom Alien i na kraju – Angel parfema. Odlucila sam ozvaniciti nasu ljubav putem Angel Vanity Collection seta koji sadrzi Angel EDP (50ml), Angel Parfimirani losion (100ml) i prekrasan neseser a sve je skupa upakovano u puderasto plavoj kutiji. Samo cu reci da je kutija bila mirisna i prije nego sam je otvorila a neseser upravo mirise intenzivno po parfemu – iako danima stoji prazan u spavacoj sobi te i nju cini mirisnom. Laknulo mi je kada sam uvidjela da je neseser vrhunskog kvaliteta. Inace sam osjetljiva na poklon setove – narocito ako cjelokupni dojam kvari jeftini neseser. Losion za tijelo je bozanstven – lagane, nemasne i brzoupijajuce teksture a mirise nesto svjezije u odnosu na parfem. Idealan je za intenziviranje parfema ali i samostalno nosenje ali su temperature zraka nesto vise. Angel EDP je umjetnicko djelo od pocetka do kraja. Da li ste znali da je svaka zvjezdana bocica unikat zahvaljujuci posebnoj tehnici obrade stakla ali i rucnog poliranja? Odlucila sam se za bocicu od 50ml posto pokusavam brzim trosenjem izbjeci mijenjanje boje parfema. To je ‘caka’ kod plavih parfema – po odredjenim uvjetima i nakon odredjenog vremena promijene boju iz plave u smedju. Mislim da bi me dusa zaboljela da se to desi. Pretpostavljam da bi i paculi mogao biti ‘krivac’. 

Patchouli, a leaf with the aroma and character of wood. This smooth, mellow leaf, which grows on a bush from South-east Asia, boasts a similar strength, power and depth. Its branches are cut 3x per year, and are dried then distilled. The results: a beautiful, amber-colored essential oil. Could this be why color changes, I wonder? For Angel, patchouli is selected from the most remote regions of Indonesia, is overdosed, then married with vanilla for perfect harmony. There are tons of perfume notes inside Angel but most prominent ones are dark chocolate, patchouli, caramel, honey, vanilla and cotton candy. I get (no joke) 24h or wear and it even clings to my clothes, jackets for days. It’s not for the faint-hearted, indecisive souls, those who do not appreciate the gourmand category, those who don’t have a sensible nose or a light hand, those who don’t make distinction between summer and winter perfumes. Jerry Hall, Estelle Lefébure, Naomi Watts, Eva Mendes, Bianca Balti, Georgia May Jagger – these are all very different women who were faces of Angel. It’s not about the hair color either. Who Angel is, then, for – I hear someone ask? Thierry Mugler Angel is a glamorous fragrance for the woman who is half-angelic and half-devilish. Water and fire, air and earth, calm and storm. It’s not said; ‘Beware of Angels’ for nothing.

Paculi, list sa aromom i karakterom drvenastih nota. Ovaj glatki, meki list koji raste na grmu i potice iz JI Azije posjeduje slicnu snagu, moc i dubinu kao note drveta. Grane se rezu 3x godisnje, potom suse i destiliraju a rezultat je krasno esencijalno ulje boje ambre. Zato sam pomislila da bi to ulje moglo, medju ostalim, utjecati na promjenu boje? Za kreiranje Angela, paculi se dobija iz najudaljenijih regija Indonezije, biva zasicen a potom uronjen u vaniliju. U ovom parfemu se nalazi mnostvo mirisnih nota ali najdominantnije su note tamne cokolade, paculija, karamele, meda, vanilije i secerne vune. Od jednog nosenja, jednog sprica dobijem 24h mirisa na kozi a na odjeci, jaknama se zadrzava i po par dana. Ovaj parfem je specifican i nije za one slabije izrazenog njuha, neodlucne duse, one koji nisu ljubitelji gurmanskih parfema, osobe koje jednodimenzionalno dozivljavaju mirise, koje ne prave razliku izmedju parfema za ljeto i parfema za zimu. Jerry Hall, Estelle Lefébure, Naomi Watts, Eva Mendes, Bianca Balti, Georgia May Jagger – sve su ovo zene koje su tokom godina bile lica Angela. Takodjer, nije rijec ni o podjeli parfema na zene po boji kose (znam da ima i takvih misljenja). Ne mogu a da ne cujem pitanje u pozadini – pa, za koga je onda Angel?! Thierry Mugler Angel je glamurozan parfem za zenu koja je podvojena – djelimicno andjeo a djelimicno djavolak. Voda i vatra, zrak i zemlja, zatisje i bura. Nije bezrazlozno moto parfema; ‘Pazite se Andjela’. Ako ste iz BiH, preporucujem dobri stari pik.ba a cijena seta je cca 120KM.

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