Sve o sastojku: Glikolna kiselina

I am preparing a product write-up really soon and I thought that I should prepare you for it. To be more precise, I will review a chemical peel for at-home use and it is glycolic-based. I think that, even though some of us are regularly using acids in our beauty routine, majority of women are unfamiliar with these types of products. Many are still frightened at the bare mention of the “acid” word but there can be no doubt that glycolic acid is effective when used correctly and in the proper concentration levels for an individual's exfoliating and moisturizing needs. I will try to assist you with my humble knowledge on this subject and try to paint a closer picture of how this beauty ingredient worked for me through that chemical peel review later on. For now, let me show my Ingredient Love for Glycolic Acid. In the early 1990s a new thing had hit the (beauty) streets. We are talking about the mighty AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids). I see them as an amazing ingredients in the cosmetic fountain of youth. There are five ingredients that fall into the AHA category; glycolic (sugar cane), lactic (milk), citric (oranges and lemons), malic (apples and pears) and tartaric acids (grapes). Glycolic acid is probably the most common alpha hydroxy acid and has the reputation of being one of the safest forms of alpha hydroxy acid. Glycolic Acid is an exfoliator which provides a remarkably even exfoliation of the skin. It is a very effective acne treatment – particulary of cystic acne which is caused by deep blockages of dead skin cells and sebum. It can be used as a treatment plan for rosacea to get the redness under control. It can also reduce fine lines and signs of premature aging by increasing cell turnover. Acne scars (and other scar lesions) respond well to consistent glycolic acid treatment. It makes further products and treatments to penetrate deeper as it removes the ‘barrier’ of dead cells and surface grime. It really is one of the only ways to truly get rid of blackheads permanently. It minimizes (not erases) the appearance of pores by keeping them clear and helping the surrounding cells to strengthen and regain elasticity.

Pripremam recenziju jednog proizvoda no prije nego objavim tu recenziju, mislila sam kako ne bi bilo lose da vas pripremim za njega. Radi se o hemijskom eksfolijantu koji funkcionise na bazi glikolne kiseline. Mislim da, iako par nas koristi kiseline redovito u svojoj beauty rutini, ipak vecina zena nema iskustva sa ovom vrstom proizvoda. Mnoge se jos uvijek plase same rijeci “kiselina” no uopste nema sumnje da je glikolna kiselina efektna kada se koristi na ispravan nacin i u okvirima koncentracije koja odgovara potrebama koze date osobe. Pokusati cu da vam pomognem svojim skromnim znanjem na ovu temu. Takodjer cu vam pokusati poblize opisati kako ova kiselina djeluje na moju kozu u toj recenziji koju cu objaviti iduce sedmice. Za sada, dopustite mi da vam iskazem svoju ljubav spram sastojka – glikolne kiseline. Tokom ranih 90-tih godina proslog stoljeca se na beauty sceni pojavilo nesto novo. Pojavile su se mocne AHA (alfa-hidroksi) kiseline. Ja na njih gledam kao na nevjerovatnan sastojak fontane mladosti. Postoji tacno pet vrsta kiselina koje spadaju u AHA grupaciju; glikolna kiselina (iz secerne trske), lakticna/mlijecna kiselina (iz mlijeka), limunska (iz narandze i limuna), jabucna kiselina (iz jabuke i kruske) i tartarska kiselina (iz grozdja). Glikolna kiselina je vjerovatno najcesca alfa-hidroksi kiselina te ima reputaciju najsigurnije AHA. Glikolna kiselina je eksfolijator koji pruza nevjerovatno ujednacenu eksfolijaciju koze. Jako je efektna kao tretman akni – posebno cisticnih akni koje su prouzrokovane dubokim zacepljenjem mrtvim celijama i sebumom. Moze se koristiti kao i tretman rosacee kako bi se crvenilo dovelo pod kontrolu. Takodjer moze ublaziti fine linije te znakove preuranjenog starenja koze. Oziljci od akni (te ostali oziljci) dobro reaguju na kontinuiranu primjenu glikolne kiseline. Ona omogucava da drugi proizvodi dublje prodiru u kozu posto uklanja barijeru sastavljenu od mrtvih celija i povrsinske prljavstine. Ublazava izgled pora (no nece ih izbrisati, kao niti bilo sto drugo) ali ce ih uspjesno odrzavati cistim te ce pomoci da okolne celije povrate svoju snagu i elasticnost.

Over the counter products containing glycolic acid range in concentration from 1% to 30%. Chemical peels performed by dermatologists range from 30% to 70%. For a over the counter, at home product, the best concentration to start with is 5% – high enough to make a difference but not so high to cause a reaction. Some believe that stay-on products such as serums and creams with less than 10% strength don't really give your skin the benefits glycolic acid is known for. I would have to disagree with that claim. Using high percentage of glycolic acid on your own is dangerous as it can cause long term damage to skin if not used correctly. Low doses used consistently work best at restoring normal health, keeping it clear, and providing a fresh glow + they are easier to use. Anything above a 10% concentration is high and needs to be used with knowledge and caution. Higher percent does not equal best performance. Smart use of milder concentrations can provide the same benefits as a drastic peel, without the possible irritating side effects – and daily use is often more effective at keeping blackheads away. Huge amounts of people find using a good product with 5% concentration every day is enough to keep skin healthy and clear of blackheads and fine lines. That is me included! 

Proizvodi koje mozemo dobiti bez recepta a koji sadrze glikolnu kiselinu variraju u koncentracijama od 1% do 30%. Hemijski pilinzi koje obavljaju dermatolozi variraju od 30% do 70%. Za proizvod koji sve mi mozemo lako nabaviti, najbolja koncentracija je 5% – dovoljna je kako bi vidljivo popravila stanje koze no nije previse visoka da bi izazvala reakciju. Neki vjeruju da serumi i kreme sa procentom glikolne kiseline ispod 10% ne pruzaju neke vidljive rezultate. Ja se uopste sa time ne mogu sloziti. Koristenje glikolne kiseline u velikim koncentracijama na svoju ruku je opasno i neodgovorno te moze izazvati dugotrajne posljedice na kozu ukoliko se ne koristi pravilno. Niske doze kada se koriste u kontinuitetu su najbolji odabir za vracanje zdravlja kozi, da je odrze zdravom i cistom te da joj podare lijep sjaj + mnogo ih je lakse koristiti. Sve iznad 10% se mora koristiti uz odgovarajuce znanje i oprez. Veci postotak ne podrazumijeva bolje rezultate. Pametna upotreba niskih nivoa glikolne kiseline moze pruziti iste rezultate kakve bi dobili sa drasticnim pilingom, samo bez mogucih iritirajucih nuspojava. Takodjer ce svakodnevno koristenje biti efektnije u uklanjanju mitesera. Mnogo osoba koje se drze kvalitetog preparativnog proizvoda sa 5% glikolne kiseline je jako zadovoljno rezultatima (cista koza, umanjeni miteseri). U tu skupinu spadam i ja!

Skin needs to get used to it. A percentage that is too high can cause redness, irritation and flaking. Important thing to keep in mind is that glycolic acid makes skin more sensitive to the sun. It is crucial to wear sunscreen whenever using any sort of AHA to avoid pigmentation and further damage. The extra sun sensitivity is temporary and will disappear quickly if you stop using products that contain AHAs. A mild tingling sensation is normal the first few times you use it. It should not be painful or cause peeling/flaking after use. Keep an eye on how your skin reacts to it. If it becomes red or irritated at all, reduce usage to once every 2 or 3 days for a couple of weeks. Listen to what your skin is telling you. Increase concentration if your skin no longer reacts as it did at the beginning (eg. tingling sensation is less) or you could add another low dose product (e.g. a toner underneath a cream). This is optional because regular use of your favorite 5% product is absolutely fine.

Kozi je potrebno nesto vremena kako bi se navikla na novi sastojak. Previse visok procenat glikolne moze izazvati crvenilo, iritaciju i perutanje koze. Ono sto je jako bitno imati na umu kod ovog sastojka jeste da kozu cini osjetljivijom na sunce. Od izuzetne vaznosti je da koristite nesto sa zastitnim faktorom ukoliko koristite bilo kakvu AHA kiselinu u kremi, toniku, umivalici…Ta dodatna osjetljivost na sunceve zrake je privremena i uskoro nestaje (povlaci se) cim prestanete koristiti proizvode sa AHA. Blagi zmarci su normalni tokom prvih par upotreba proizvoda sa glikolnom kiselinom. Ni u kom slucaju ne bi trebali osjetiti nelagodu, bol ili kasnije perutanje koze. Drzite kozu na oku i pratite kako se ponasa. Ukoliko se zacrveni ili iziritira, smanjite koristenje na svaka 2-3 dana tokom par sedmica. Slusajte sto vam koza porucuje. Mozete povecati koncentraciju glikolne kiseline u svojoj preparativi ukoliko vam koza na prvobitnu koncentraciju ne reaguje vise (nema vise blagih zmaraca). A mogli bi pored postojeceg proizvoda ubaciti u koristenje jos jedan sa niskom koncentracijom glikolne tj. slojevito je nanositi (npr. tonik ispod kreme). Ovo je samo stvar odabira jer uopste nema razloga da i dalje ne koristite nivo od 5% ukoliko vam odgovara.

You should not use glycolic acid if:

• Roaccutane is prescribed to you or you have used it recently
• you have recently had a microdermabrasion treatment
• you use sunbeds or are in the sun frequently without adequate protection (please, so not do this)
• you have thinned or sensitized skin
• just be careful and start off with low concentrations and perhaps once a week if you have a skin that tends to be dry or sensitive

Ne bi trebali koristiti glikolnu kiselinu ukoliko:

• koristite Roaccutane ili ste ga nedavno koristili
• nedavno ste se podvrgli tretmanu mikrodermoabrazije
• idete u solarij ili ste cesto izlozeni suncu bez adekvatne zastite (molim vas da ovo ne cinite)
• koza vam je iz bilo kog razloga stanjena i osjetljiva
• jednostavno budite oprezne pri koristenju, pa cak i niskih koncentracija, glikolne kiseline ako vam je koza suha ili osjetljiva